Between Samarkand and Bukhara, the Nuratau Mountains hide a different Uzbekistan: stone and clay villages in green valleys, hillsides grazed by flocks, and families who still welcome travellers into their homes. A homestay here is not a hotel with a village view. It is a night or two inside everyday life, and knowing what to expect makes it far more enjoyable.
The villages
Our routes use the villages of Hayat, Ukhum, Asraf and Sentob in the Nuratau Mountains. You stay with local families, eat with them and walk between the villages on mountain paths.
Rooms and bathrooms
Expect simple, clean rooms with traditional bedding. Bathrooms are usually shared, and in mountain villages hot water can be limited to certain hours of the day. This simplicity is part of the experience. If you need a private bathroom every night, tell us before booking so we can advise you honestly.
Food
Meals are cooked at home by your hosts: fresh bread, tea, salads and a hearty dinner shared at the family table. If you are vegetarian or have allergies, write it in the special requests field when you book so your hosts can plan. To understand what is on the table, read our guides to plov and to tea culture.
The hike
On our 3- and 4-day routes the second day is a guided hike from Ukhum to Asraf: about 12 km and 4-5 hours, with panoramic views of mountains, valleys and steppe, and a picnic lunch on the way or lunch in a village. On the 5-day route you walk the same stretch from Asraf to Ukhum. It is a walking trail, not a climb, but comfortable hiking shoes and a reasonable level of fitness are recommended.
Along the way
On the 3- and 4-day routes you visit a breeding enclosure of the Severtzov's argali in Hayat, a rare wild sheep protected here since the Nuratau reserve was founded in 1975, and explore the ruins of an ancient village. The 5-day route adds the ancient tree of Majrum, locally said to be around 2,500 years old, and free time to walk around Sentob village.
Manners and etiquette
Take your shoes off before entering the house, accept tea and bread, ask before photographing people, dress modestly and thank your hosts. A small gift from home is appreciated but never expected.
When to go
Spring and autumn are the most comfortable seasons for hiking, while summer middays can be hot and winter nights are cold.
The Nuratau Mountains
The Nuratau range runs east to west between the Zarafshan valley and the Kyzylkum desert, and its highest point, Hayatbashi, rises to about 2,169 metres. The villages lie in valleys on the slopes, where springs and streams allow orchards and small fields. Walnut and fruit trees, stone walls and flat-roofed houses give the area a character very different from the cities of the Silk Road.
A day in the village
Village life starts early and follows the seasons. You may see bread baked in a tandoor oven, animals taken out to pasture or fruit drying on the roofs in late summer. You are welcome to watch and, when the moment is right, to help. Evenings are quiet: dinner with the family, tea, and early nights.
What to pack
Pack light, comfortable hiking shoes, a daypack for the walk, a warm layer for the evenings, a hat and sun cream. A headlamp, a small towel, slippers for indoors and basic toiletries are useful. Bring a reusable water bottle; your guide will tell you where it can be refilled safely.
Money and phone signal
There are no cash machines in the villages, so bring cash for small purchases such as handicrafts. Mobile signal can be patchy in the valleys and on the trail, so let your family know you may be offline for part of the trip.
Which route to choose
The 3-day route is the shortest way to experience the villages and the hike, and it ends in Nurata. The 4-day route adds a night in a yurt camp by Aydarkul Lake. The 5-day route gives you the most time: it adds the ancient tree of Majrum, a free afternoon in Sentob and a long stop at Aydarkul before the yurt camp. All three can start and end in Samarkand or Bukhara; on the 5-day route, starting in Bukhara reverses the order of the stops.
Families and older travellers
The homestays welcome families. Write the number and ages of your children in the notes when you book so the hosts can prepare. The hike is the most demanding part of the trip; if you are unsure about walking 12 km, tell us when you book and we will advise you on the options.
Responsible travel
Your stay brings income directly to village families and helps keep these communities alive. Use water carefully, take your rubbish back with you, and buy crafts from the people who make them. To continue the journey, read about Nurata town and Aydarkul Lake.
Plan your trip
Our Nuratau tours combine village homestays, a guided mountain hike and Nurata town. The 3-, 4- and 5-day versions start in Samarkand or Bukhara, and the 4- and 5-day versions add a night in a yurt camp by Aydarkul Lake.
