The Seven Lakes, known as Haft Kul or the Marguzor Lakes, are a chain of turquoise lakes in a high valley of the Fann Mountains in Tajikistan. They are a long day from Samarkand across the Tajik border, and a little preparation makes the trip much smoother.
The route
The day starts with a pick-up at your hotel in Samarkand and a drive of roughly 70 km to the Jartepa border. After the crossing you meet a Tajik driver, pass Panjakent and continue up a mountain valley, roughly another 70 km, to the lakes. You return the same way and are back at your hotel in the evening.
The border crossing
The crossing at Jartepa-Sarazm is on foot. It usually takes 30 to 60 minutes but can take longer. Vehicles do not cross: your Uzbek driver takes you to the border and a Tajik driver meets you on the other side, and the same happens on the way back. Keep your passport handy.
Visa and passport
Whether you need a Tajik visa depends on your nationality: some travellers can enter without a visa, others need an e-visa applied for online in advance. Rules change, so check the official Tajik government website or your embassy before you book. If you hold an Uzbek visa rather than visa-free entry, make sure it allows re-entry: a single-entry visa will not let you return the same evening.
The lakes
The lakes lie one after another along the valley. Spellings vary, but operators usually list Nezhigon, Soya, Gushor, Nofin, Khurdak, Marguzor and Hazorchashma, the last being the highest. How far you go in one day depends on the time spent at the border and on road conditions, and your guide takes you as far along the lakes as the day allows. The water ranges from turquoise to deep blue.
When to go
The usual season is April to October, when the mountain road is in its best condition. Mountain weather changes quickly, so take a light jacket even in summer.
What to bring
Your passport, some cash, comfortable walking shoes, water, sun protection and a camera. Lunch is included in our tour, so tell us about dietary needs when you book.
The day, step by step
Most of the day is spent on the road, so it helps to know the rhythm. After the morning pick-up you drive out of Samarkand to the border, which usually takes one to one and a half hours. After the crossing your Tajik driver takes you through Panjakent and up the valley. You usually reach the first lakes around midday, spend the early afternoon driving and walking between them, and start back in the mid-afternoon so that you are back in Samarkand in the evening.
Panjakent on the way
Panjakent is the first town on the Tajik side and one of the oldest in the region. On its edge lie the ruins of ancient Panjakent, a Sogdian town that flourished between roughly the 5th and 8th centuries and is known for the wall paintings found there, now partly shown in museums. Our standard day goes straight to the lakes, but if you would like a short stop in Panjakent, ask when you book: it makes a long day a little longer.
The road up the valley
Above Panjakent the road follows the Shing river into the Fann Mountains and becomes narrower and rougher, with unpaved stretches higher up. This is why the Tajik side is usually driven in an off-road vehicle. The drive is slow and can be bumpy, so if you are prone to motion sickness, take precautions and sit near the front. The reward is a valley of small villages, orchards and steep rock walls that changes with every bend.
Altitude and weather
The lakes lie at roughly 1,600 to 2,400 metres above sea level, rising from the first lake to the last. It is noticeably cooler than in Samarkand and the mountain sun is strong, so pack both a warm layer and sun protection. The altitude is moderate, but take short walks slowly if you are not used to the mountains.
Money and phone signal
Tajikistan's currency is the somoni. Carry some cash for snacks or souvenirs, as cards are rarely accepted in the villages; your guide can advise how much you need. Mobile signal can be weak or absent in parts of the valley, so download offline maps and tell your family you may be unreachable for part of the day.
Photography
The colour of the water depends on light, season and weather, from milky turquoise to deep blue, and the lakes often look brightest when the sun is high, which suits the timing of a day trip. Ask before photographing people in the villages, and check the local rules before flying a drone.
Is this trip right for you?
It is a long day with many hours in a vehicle and short walks at the lakes. It suits travellers who enjoy mountain scenery and do not mind an early start and rough roads. If you prefer a slower pace, ask us whether a longer version of the trip is possible on your dates.
Plan your day
Our full-day Seven Lakes trip leaves from your hotel in Samarkand, crosses the Tajik border on foot and returns the same evening, with guide and lunch.
Photos (resized): Шухрат Саъдиев, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0.
